World Kanno Travel Blog: Colombia's Cali and Cauca Valley

Parque Artesanal Loma de la Cruz... Cali, Colombia

It’s not so often I return to a country that I’ve already traveled. Mostly, because there are so many more countries out there waiting to be discovered. But, there are a handful that left an impression on me and I have returned. Some of the ones that stand out are: China, Panama, Thailand, Japan, Spain, Germany, and Mexico. So, to visit a country three times means it’s gotta be packing a lot. Colombia is that kind of country that I’ve found myself returning to over and over again. It has a lot to offer, whether you are looking to chill along the beach on the Caribbean coast, hike the many mountains ranges throughout the country, or take a slow boat through the Amazon. Then, of course you have the big cities like Bogota, Medellin, Cartagena, and Cali. Each, with its own flavor. And finally, the Colombian people, that are as ethnically diverse as they come in Latin America. African, European, and Indigenous. Most of the Colombian people a blend of two or more. A country with that kind of diversity means everything to me as a traveler.

60th Feria de Cali

Feria de Cali

Cali is the Salsa Capital of the World

But, my third trip to Colombia was a bit different from my previous two. This time, I was with my girlfriend, who is from Cali. And what better time to visit Cali than the end of the year? For any Colombian, they immediately know what that means… Feria de Cali. It’s the hottest time of year to come to Cali, which has a reputation for its women and salsa! The Festival of Cali is Madi Gras to New Orleans, Carnival to Rio, Eagles Super Bowl Victory to Philadelphia! Originally, the festival’s purpose was to promote and a way to really celebrate the diversity of Cali’s people. Like with most festivals, the appeal of the festival has international appeal with thousands of people coming from out of town during the Christmas and New Year holiday.

daily parades throughout Feiria

Juan Manuel in Concert

Feria de Cali officially kicks off the day after Christmas and last five days. It’s five days full of colorful parades, big concerts, and of course, block parties. Had I gone solo, I know I would have really experienced Feria in all its glory. For starters, Cali is the salsa capital of the world. During Feria, the most recognized salsa singers are in town entertaining the crowds throughout the city. Luckily, my girlfriend, who is a real veteran of the festival knew exactly how to throw down. I could never really appreciate the artists like a true salsa fan, as I grew up on hip hop and R&B. But, to witness the crowd’s enthusiasm when we saw Victor Manuel was wow! I knew I was witnessing the best salsa out there. The enthusiasm was in infectious. The energy, kinetic.

What was nice about this particular trip to Cali, is I didn’t have to do any planning. My girlfriend took the lead and I just followed. Rarely, do I ever get to take a back seat. It was like being a baby in a stroller. And, when I say baby, I mean baby. My Spanish is that of a four-year-old. So, I just did a lot of four-year-old statements to keep the dialogue going. “Hola, como estas? Me llamo Ches.” “Me gusta Colombia.” “Cali es chevere!” Each statement was well received. Like a participant in a special Olympics crossing the finish line, I felt uber special.

Salsa comes in many forms when one is in the "zone"

Quickly, I discovered that, what I lacked in verbal communication could be made up on the dance floor. My salsa moves were on fleek, as long as I think and act like I’m in the “zone”, then yo bueno! Coordinating rhythm, liquor, and jumping jacks go a long way on any dance floor in Colombia.

overlooking downtown Cali from San Antonio neighborhood

comedy in the park in San Antonio

Things to Do and Eat in Cali

Since this was my first time to Cali, it was more than just experiencing Feria. There was also making the rounds over the course of ten days, meeting my girlfriend’s amigos and family breaking bread and enjoying each other’s company. Her close friends gathered for a nice house party in el barrio de Aranjuez for a close friend’s birthday. She also used the opportunity to share with them, she was moving to Miami. It was a beautiful and special night to be a part of.

toast to friendship

first manicure

The later events were spread out throughout the city and surrounding area. My girlfriend grew up in barrio de Mariano Ramos, so we spent a lot of time there. Had a great night salsa dancing in Las Canchas Panamericanas, listened to some really good live music throughout the popular barrio de San Antonio. El Sotareno cafe was the most reliable for both music and craft beer. Cali surprised me with its international food options. From Publix grade sushi at South Beach prices to its uniquely Colombianized versions of the hotdog and hamburger. Both, are served with ample amounts of richly thick sauces and odd toppings, like pineapple. However, one surprise was the amazingly delicious homemade pasta from Balocco restaurant in downtown Cali. All the pasta is made in house and the service was superb.

Galaria Santa Elena

Galaria Santa Elena is a fascinating market to visit

bowl of Caldo Peligroso

Another surprising experience to note was the huge Afro-Colombian presence in Cali. Cali is settled closer to the Pacific coast, so it was surprising to see such a heavy African presence so far from the Caribbean. Their food is uniquely African and Colombian originating from the Pacific coast, so lots of seafood, and seafood happens to be one of my favorite foods, so my girlfriend made it a point for me to experience some authentic treats only found in these parts. For starters, we had some banging ass ceviche and fish at a restaurant called La Sevicheria Guapi in the Luna neighborhood. But, the most memorable dish was a soup called Caldo Peligroso from one of the most stimulating markets I’ve ever experienced called Galleria de Santa Elena. Not the safest place for a gringo, but I was in good hands. We explored the many stalls, before stopping at this particular one. The special of the day, a soup, which translates to “hot danger” and is a specialty of the Afro-Colombian woman who makes and sells it out of her food stall. The lady, with a jawline of a bulldog and a no non-nonsense demeanor, didn’t miss a beat; serving soup, collecting money, and ripping jokes all at the same time. She said, the soup was made with love and all the discarded parts of animal; an aphrodisiac of bull testicles and goat milk!

Cauca Valley

Cali is nestled in the Cauca Valley, so we made it a point to get out of the city. First for some Kambo in the nearby mountains of Reforma and a day trip to the small town of Pance to exchange the hustle and bustle of Cali streets for the serenity of a bamboo forest.

New Year's Eve

Dressing up in scary costumes for NYE

is tradition in these parts

By New Year’s Eve, we decided we had enough of the chaos that Feria brought and headed to my girlfriend’s grandma’s house in the super small puebla of La Tupia about an hour east of Cali’s city limits. What a perfect way to bring in the New Year. I felt like the guest of honor, as I got to meet the queen of the clan, along with all the aunts and uncles, cousins, nieces, and nephews. Everyone was so nice and welcoming. One interesting tradition in these parts is all the teens dressing up in scary costumes on New Year’s Eve, and going around the neighborhood scaring the little ones. Then at midnight, they ablaze paper effigies which symbolizes letting go of last year's baggage and starting the new year fresh. Neighbors are out, and everyone invites one another for a bite and a shot of aguadiente. Any drink that has the word DIE in the middle is a clear clue as to what you're getting yourself into. But this an opportunity to let go of the baggage and stresses of the old year and just let loose with your loved ones. It’s a time for relatives who have left the small towns for the big cities, to return for a reunion of sorts. People getting wasted together, sharing home cooked meals, praying, and dancing salsa until the early morning light.

making and burning effigies is a way to drop old grudges from the old year

preparing sancocho in the backyard takes all day and is a joint effort

Her grandma was super sweet and attentive, like any grandma would be. Her humble home was a filled with her children and grandkids visiting for the special occasion. Her daughters helping with the duties of preparing the sancocho (Colombia’s national soup) in an enormous pot over an open wood fire in the backyard. The family rooster and his hens scurrying after one another in the back yard, while family members took turns peeling yucca. In the night, we slept with relatives in one room, packed tightly on three beds, mosquito nets, crosses, and the Virgin Mary over each. By late morning, we ended up hitchhiking a ride back to Cali in an old beat up car from another era. Such a simple and lovely experience to have with my girlfriend. I’ve always appreciated the simple things in life. Good food, lovely people, and a reason to have both at the same time.

sancocho

3 - 2- 1... HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Being yourself with FAMILY is what's all about

time for family reunions

mosquito net forts for bed

The Colombian government as tried to promote healthier living by installing workout equipment that nobody has used since the first day they were installed.

walking the farm fields in grandma's backyard

hitchhiking back to Cali

getting them knots out

We also made an overnight trip to visit her dad in Queremal, about an hour and half west of Cali in the surrounding mountains. A sleeping town with a national park. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to do any hiking, as we were just there for one night to spent time with her father, aunt, and cousin who was visiting from Bogota. However, I did get a chance to address the knots in my back that have been killing me since this past summer. Low and behold, a blind man massage, who knows nothing but exorcising the devil from peoples’ back. I never knew such pleasurable pain until I met Tocayo. For thirty minutes, Tocayo was crushing the knot in my left shoulder like it owed him money. For fifty years this guy has delivered salvation to the back pains of thousands here in Colombia.

home security

Cultural differences when it comes to security. Both Colombia and the USA have a reputation for violence. Cultures adapt varying measures for security. It’s no secret US Americans prefer the gun or home security system. In Colombia, where laws do not give one the right to own guns easily and the cost of a home security system is a luxury, the preferred method is high fences and barbed wire. The funny thing is this house is way out in the rural sticks of Queremal (about 1.5 hours) outside of Cali) and still all the homes are protected like miniature modern day medieval castles. Both a moat and barbed wire high fence. Gotta love the jacuzzi bearing witness to the prison like environment and the picturesque panoramic view!

Popayan

also known as the White City

Our final stop was three hours away to the city of Popayan for a couple quieter days and nights. Known also as the “white city”, because the old colonial town is painted uniformly white. It’s a popular university town on the way to the border with Ecuador, and also where my girlfriend spent some time as a university student. There, we just relaxed and took it easy before I departed back for Miami. Overall, this trip was exceptional for the fact I was able to experience it with my girlfriend. To experience a foreign place with a local is completely different that as a tourist. Definitely, look forward to returning.