Valapaiso... if the Bronx and a Favala had a baby with the art district of Wynwood in Miami... this would be it!

THE CITY'S RICH PAST

The city of Valparaiso is the Bronx of Chile.  It has the rough and tough edge of an old heavy weight fighter in the twelfth round fighting his way back now!  Weathered the constant storm of pirates creating havoc and making party during the Spanish colonial period.  By the time the first half of the 19^th Century arrived, the city morphed from a small Spanish colonial town with a few houses and a church into an international boomtown.  Thank the California Gold Rush for that. 

Back then, there was no Panama Canal and the Northwest Passage was impassable (today’s global warming has changed that) so the only way to transport cargo was by boat was around the Strait of Magellan on the southern tip of South America.   During the California Gold Rush in the mid 19^th Century, the city grew rapidly as thousands of European immigrants descended here to capitalize on the amount cargo being transported between California and the rest of the world.  As a result of this “get rich or die trying” migration, the architecture and culture of Valparaiso ended up reflected a blend as diverse as it’s European diaspora.

Unfortunately, Valparaiso became a victim of logistics when the Panama Canal opened in the early 20^th Century.  No longer did cargo ships need to go around the southern most tip of the Southern Hemisphere.  Humans made it possible to sail across “land” in a place called Panama.

VALPARAISO TODAY

Coming here was lovely surprise.  What did one expect to find in a place that fell from the world stage of global importance?  It is a city that has overcome earthquakes, economic collapse, political upheaval, and isolation over the last one hundred years.  And you see it in every building, business, hotel, market, boat, and person who calls this place home.

Walking the streets is the only way to get an appreciation the uniqueness of Valparaiso.  It’s a huge outdoor museum and art gallery, all balled up in one.  At a glance, it feels you are in the middle of a favela, but without the danger.  Valparaiso takes pride in it’s past and is experiencing a sort of renaissance these days.  Instead of shipping it’s become tourism.  But not in the hokey kind of way.  It has real grit and soul.  You see a city thriving despite the dilapidated buildings and crumbling streets.  It’s the inside that counts, but in this analogy, it’s the graffiti that dominates the structures.  And wow, how interesting and beautiful it is!

CITY GRAFFITI TOUR

The city offers several walking tours, but I only went on the street art tour, which is really kind of pointless.  I mean, how can you really take your time and appreciate the art when you have twenty tourists taking selfies in front of the very art you’re trying to appreciate and take your own selfie in front of?

Losing yourself in Valparaiso’s labyrinth is the best way to ingest the city properly.  The forty-five hills that make up Valparaiso have entire neighborhoods clinging to its topsoil.  Be prepared for steep stairways and narrow alleyways.  There are a series of funiculars if you want to save energy and the see the city from the perspective of a drone.  Regardless, you will be accompanied by a slew of cafes, bars, and restaurants every step of the way.  The murals are insane.  Layers of graffiti litter the exterior of every building. Both building and mural telling a personal story. 

Besides the art, the nightlife here is excellent.  In the old town of Valparaiso, you will find at least five bars on every block, and Chileans, regardless of the city, like to spend their time on the street partying and eating any chance they get.  

The food is second to none in Chile, so take advantage of some of the best and widest variety of seafood that arrives fresh daily from both Atlantic and Pacific oceans.  It’s not cheap, but you can’t pass on this quality of freshness,

VINA DEL MAR

If you have the time to spare, I recommend taking the rail to the wealthier and more modern city of Vina del Mar.  It doesn’t have the character or originality of Valparaiso, but it’s an interesting side of Chile that reminds me more of a ritzy European neighborhood.  From what I gather, this is the area you go if you want to high end shopping, fancy dining, or a Europeanesque Diskotech.